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Repair Summary
This article gives detailed instructions on replacing the rear shocks in a BMW E46 3 series vehicle. Even though we used a 2004 325ci to perform this repair, this article can be applied to any 1998-2006 vehicle with minor modifications to the repair steps.
See all vehicles this article applies to
E46 3 Series 325ti
E46 3 Series 318td
E46 3 Series 320td
E46 3 Series 318ti
E46 3 Series 330xi
E46 3 Series 330i
E46 3 Series 330xd
E46 3 Series 330d
E46 3 Series 316ti
E46 3 Series 328i
E46 3 Series 325xi
E46 3 Series 325i
E46 3 Series 320i
E46 3 Series 323i
E46 3 Series 320d
E46 3 Series 318i
E46 3 Series 318d
E46 3 Series 316i
E46 3 Series M3 CSL
E46 3 Series M3
E46 3 Series 330Ci
E46 3 Series 330Cd
E46 3 Series 325Ci
E46 3 Series 323Ci
E46 3 Series 320Ci
E46 3 Series 320Cd
E46 3 Series 318Ci
E46 3 Series 328Ci
E46 3 Series 316Ci
E46 3 Series 323i 2.4
E46 3 Series 316i 1.9
E46 3 Series 316i 1.6
A BMW E46 rear shock replacement is a fairly easy repair that will help stop your 3 series from bouncing down rough roads and nose diving at stop signs.
The BMW E46 3 series is iconic, in both ride and design. But as our E46s start to approach senior status (some of them are 20 years old now), their good looks can no longer anesthetize our feelings of being hog-tied to a rodeo bull as we travel down a bumpy highway.
Suspension repairs have always been the bane of home mechanics because of the need to jack and support their vehicles. Let's face it...anytime we have to partially lie under a two-ton piece of steel and take its framework apart can make even the seasoned mechanic a bit queasy. The good news is a BMW E46 rear shock replacement does not require you to get under the vehicle. It is a fairly easy repair that will also save you a bunch of money by "doing it yourself".
Convertible versus coupe/sedan
Even though a BMW E46 shock replacement is quite straightforward, there is a slight variance in the removal process between the E46 convertible and coupe/sedan. With the E46 convertible, the upper shock mount is accessed from under the convertible top lid for removal; the upper shock mount is accessed from the trunk in coupes and sedans. This may sound confusing at first, but is actually quite simple; just remember with the 3 series convertible, you simply remove the two shock mount nuts from under the convertible top lid and the shock absorber can be pulled out of the wheel well. With the coupe/sedan, you will need to remove part of the side trunk lining to access the shock mount nuts. This article has instructions for both convertibles and hard-top vehicles.
View the detailed parts diagram for this repair.
Includes detailed part diagrams, part numbers and links to purchase all of the required components needed to complete this repair.
Section 1 - Jacking and Supporting the Vehicle
- Using a 17mm socket and breaker bar, slightly loosen the lug nuts on rear wheels. DO NOT REMOVE LUG NUTS! You cannot loosen rear wheel lug nuts with a socket wrench or breaker bar when car is in the air.
- Jack and support the rear of your vehicle using the Jack Stand Method as shown in our article BMW Jacking and Supporting for Repairs and Maintenance.
- Finish removing lug nuts and remove rear wheels from vehicle.
- Starting on the left side of the car, identify the rear shock absorber in the rear wheel well.
- Position a floor jack underneath lower wishbone and raise until pressure is taken off of the shock absorber.
Section 2 - Removing the Shock Mount Nuts on Convertibles
- Raise the convertible top until you can gain access to its storage compartment. The shock mounting nuts are located under the two plastic plugs in the floor of the compartment. Remove the plastic plugs with your fingers.
- Use a 13mm socket wrench to remove the two shock mount nuts.
Section 3 - Removing Shock Mount Nuts on Coupes and Sedans
- In coupes and sedans, the shock mounts are located in the trunk compartment behind the floor liner. Start by removing the spare tire cover from the floor of the trunk.
- Remove the plastic rivets anchoring the left side trim. Usually there are only two, but this may differ depending on your model vehicle. Firmly grasp the side trim and pull loose. Tuck it neatly out of the way near the back of the trunk.
- Locate the left shock absorber mount. It is hidden behind the sound insulation.
- Pull the sound insulation from the top of the left wheel housing exposing the left shock absorber mount. The sound insulation will most likely be old and brittle, and may break apart during removal (like ours did - see photo below). If you wish to order new sound insulation, click here.
- Remove the two shock mount nuts using a 13mm socket wrench.
Section 4 - All Models: Removing and Disassembling Shock Absorber
- Using an 18mm socket wrench, remove the hex bolt anchoring the shock absorber to rear trailing arm. The bolt is torqued tight...use a breaker bar or piece of galvanized pipe to break it loose.
- Lower the floor jack. Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle.
- Remove the old shock mount gasket. It is most likely stuck to the top of the wheel well.
- Use a 16mm crows foot socket (or open end wrench) and an adjustable wrench (to keep shaft from spinning) to remove the self locking hex nut from the top of the shock absorber shaft. Option - if you don’t have a 16mm crows foot socket, you can use a 16mm open end wrench. You just won’t be able to torque the nut to spec at the end of the article.
- Remove the plate and washer gasket from the shaft.
- Remove the shock mount and second plate from the shaft.
- Remove the small washer, and what is left of the old bump stop and dust cover.
- Remove the bottom stop. This is often overlooked and thrown out with the old shock. It is needed to keep the dust boot from sliding off of the shock absorber.
- Reassembly is the exact opposite of the above steps. The following is a helpful schematic diagram to make sure you have all of the parts installed correctly during reassembly.
- If you are using a 16mm crows foot, use a torque wrench to torque the self locking nut at top of the shock absorber shaft to 14Nm (10 ft-lb).
- Don't forget the new shock mount gasket that was stuck to wheel well. It should be installed now on shock mount.
- Attach the shock to the rear trailing arm and torque mounting bolt to 100Nm (74 ft-lb).
- Raise the floor jack. Reinstall the two shock mount nuts and torque to 28 Nm (21 ft-lb).
Reinstalling and torquing shock mount nuts in sedan/coupe models. - Reassemble the rest of the vehicle following above steps in reverse.
BMW E46 Rear Shock Replacement Finished
